From town there is a narrow pathway next to hotel pacific and if you don’t know what you’re looking for, you’re bound to miss it. A few quick turns and you’re in; the tarp covered dusty/dark alley looks different, yet the same, every visit.
As I’ve mentioned, the fabric market is my favorite. Maybe that’s because the prices are fixed and there is no need for bargaining – one piece (2m x 2m) of Kitenge is 3,000USH (a buck fifty); one piece of Wax is 5,000. I’ve committed myself as a loyal customer to this fella, Michael Kabaka (Kabaka, FYI, is the Lugandan term for king…). Kabaka Michael has some of the widest varieties of Wax and Kitenge (the difference being that Wax is a heavier, hardier fabric), directly imported from Congo.
After you pick your fabric it is a quick mosey down the aisles to a row of tailors, willing to craft (or copy) anything to could want. Well, maybe no Armani beaded gown. But I’ll leave it with: stateside friends and family check your mailboxes soon…
Cavorting along further, and you really might as well frolic as all eyes will be on you anyway as a muzungu in the market, you’ll reach the everything aisles, or the proverbial CVS of northern Uganda. Socks and bras, toy cars, nike wallets, needle nose pliers, school supplies, and of course, flip-flops, radios, and bike lube.
There is a bit of bargaining and strong headedness required in these parts, in order to not be completely ripped off – Muzungu’s are initially asked to pay something like 200% above the going rate. The haggling can be hairraising and I generally prefer to go to market with other Ugandans…
A few turns and circle and minutes later you’ll find yourself amidst the food markets, where you’ll find women of all ages (and a few men) selling their wares. I don’t understand how the market structure works – if people rent their spaces, or there is an assumed ownership of a particular stall – but you will find the same vendors at the same locations, day in, day out.
After leaving the fresh produce area, you’ll saunter through some beans, rice, and tomato- paste-people. Then eggs, then chapatti, then popcorn.
On the way out, you may find desperate looking children selling an odd assortment of things…I bought two knives from this guy for a total of 500 shillings (about 25 cents):
And no market visit is complete without a stroll through the jerry-can and goat department. Here you can find the essential container that many Ugandan families use to fetch water, gasoline, and anything else that is liquid needing transport. It’s not uncommon to find a woman with a shallow basin full of potatoes balanced precariously atop her head, carrying two full jerrycans, with a sleeping child tied to her back, walking barefoot for multiple kilometers. Through the rain and/or blazing sun.
We ended our day with a stop at the Arua art market, where a sweet woman named Felia and a man called Harold, make weavings, necklaces, pots, carvings, and import antiquities from Congo. Felia has promised to teach me the ways of her craft; we’ll see about that. For now only photos:
Benoit, Harold, Caroline, Felia::Caroline and the 80 year old flute from Congo (plus Felia’s earings)
A small sample of the many pieces from Congo. Each comes with a note that Felia has written with the “origin” of the piece: namely who she bought it from, what it was used for (ie. Circumsision mask, or burial ceremony mask) and from what tribe (i’ve noted Pembe, Punu, Luba and a few others). They aren’t cheap, ranging from 70,000 – 300,000+, but if you’re in the market, certainly worth a look!
I’ve only just learned of this craft shop, and am still quite surprised by it – there is really no tourism in all of Arua, so I can’t fathom why the place is here, except for my delight.
That said, I’ve got to run to town, the market is calling!
No comments:
Post a Comment