backlog, feb 19

Monday Feb. 19:

Favorite part about work at CARE HQ in Kla: the magical office space they initially gave me. Every time I pass the bushes a swarm of butterflies (most likely moths) come out in droves. I’m talking at least 30 of them at a time. They flick about romantically, sometimes finding their way inside of the office, which is kept open at all times.



Least favorite part about work in CARE HQ in Kla: the consistently awful music being played at either the neighboring hotel restaurant or the neighboring hotel construction site. I’m talking bad, bad music. Eminiem, on repeat. Celine Dion. Mariah Carey; Christina Aguilera. And I’m talking LOUD. So loud that the windows reverberate with the decibels. Ridiculous. But at the same time slightly awesome, in an ironic, I’m in Africa sort of way.

backlog, feb 18

Sunday: Feb. 18:
I met up with Chris, an Aussie who formerly interned at Carter Center. He now works for a S. African Uni in their Chinese research center, in K’la…he spent time in southern Sudan, working on a project meant to deliver radio transmission to thousands of people, on a limited budget, but for one reason or another the project failed. We talked about corruption and how deeply it has penetrated all levels within Africa, including other parts. Our conversation was shared with a nice guy called Rama (i.e. Ramadahn) at the expat pub, called “just kickin” in Kisimenti. A few brews in and Krisitin met up with us.

The highlight of the afternoon was learning how much there is to learn. Also, Chris divulged that the Fairway hotel has been a key location for African diplomats or negotiators from Southern Sudan specifically, to shack up and take residence for a few months at a time in Uganda.



Noah invited me out with his huge circle of friends to a Chinese restaurant in the middle of town, Fang Fang. While celebrating the year of the golden pig (? I think) in style was fun an all, Chinese new year really wasn’t worth 30,000 shillings…

Day 4: Rakai

Saturday Feb. 17: Rakai

During my search for opportunity/work in Uganda I was connected with Dr. Fred. Ssewamala) through family friends, thus making me his “American sister.” He is here in UG, his homeland, on research leave from Columbia University, and was kind enough to take me to the south part of the country, near the Tanzania border, to visit some of his research sites and meet some involved folk.

Fred picked me up at the crack of dawn and we drove south with his sister Ida, and a recent graduate of Makerere, a soon to be teacher named Brian. On the drive Fred introduced me to many things I had yet to encounter, such as the massive anthills that dominate the roadsides. Apparently they are full of white ants, which people cook and eat...


We passed markets and many people ran up to the car upon slowing down, to sell you foods/drinks/animals/children(joke)/anything you want:


I had the privilege of passing from the northern hemisphere to the southern and back in the span of a few hours...


We stopped for a breakfast meeting with a higher up (the equivalent of governor) in the local government of Masaka to discuss the role of Fred's research with the 17 partner schools (details below). The local leader was dynamic and forthright, inspirational as well, as many of the points he raised are elements that I will be looking at in my upcoming work with CARE's INPACT initiative.

Fred’s work is in economic and social development with orphans and child-headed households. His research is looking at how, through monetary and savings education, along with Child Development Accounts (CDAs), vulnerable children will thrive and succeed more fully. His innovative work is receiving lots of attention – through some prestigious funding/donors he has set an initiative that creates an individual bank/savings account per child involved, provides financial training, and then matches the financial contributions of the child/their family 2 to 1. The funds are reserved strictly for educational purposes and can later be used to pay for secondary education (the equivalent of middle school in the states), which is not compulsory, but is not free either. The research is suggesting that higher attainment is reached primarily through the incentive and knowledge base of hope. And thus the project’s name, SUUBI.

With the 'governor':


We reached the school, an hour after breakfast - and so many "African" stereotypes were fulfilled - from the degrees of modernization, to the friendly smiles, to the religious indoctrination of all elements, etc. The main office for the SUUBI program is within one of the 17 primary schools involved in the research, which is situated within a Parish, that has a religious school, church, and living quarters.





A map of Rakai district:


Inspirational messages dot the grounds...


Fred and one of the Fathers of the Parish led a discussion with many of the parents/caregivers/community stakeholders to explain some of the economic dimensions of the project:





Monique is one of Fred's MSW students at Columbia; she is interning this term and living at the Parish.


thanking Monique and Dr. Fred:



The parents decided to give me a Ugandan name, after learning I am more than a mere tourist...Namawejje! I don't know what this translates as, but I'm not asking either. After an hour long discussion in Luganda, which I don't understand, I was ready to head outside and meet the children.

At the school:


We stepped out from the classroom setting and the kids all flocked around me, a foreign muzungu!


The Father wanted a picture of us together, as it was a rather joyous time:



We all celebrated with cake (sweet breads) and hung about for awhile as parents paid their respects to Fred and the Father.


This group of children had many questions for me -- name, age, where from, and then, "What is your Tribe?":


These kids had such a difficult time believing me, to the point they said I was lying to them, when I told them I didn't have a tribe or clan. I considered telling them that I am Jewish, but figured that I would save that explanation for another time...

One of the older boys of the Parish, Ivan:


Monique and Proscovia, or Prossie #1:


Back at the Brovad hotel for dinner:


Prossie #1, Monique, and Prossie #2:


It was such an experience traveling to Rakai - it was the "Africa" that we all picture from our air-conditioned homes. Except that perhaps my picture is different than your picture, seeing that few of my friends and family members have the same interests in Africa that I seem to have developed. That said, the people were so warm and welcoming, and also entertained by me. For some individuals I think I may have been one of the few white people they've seen or met before. When we would stop for drinks, the children would run up to the windows, point, scream "Muzungu, Muzungu!" and say hello before laughing themselves into histerics and hiding their faces at the site of a whitey like me. I couldn't help but laugh back.

The drive back to K'la (Kampala...) was full of awesome spottings; Matoke, or plantains/bananas are a staple crop in Uganda. Matoke is the cooked, mashed, starchy food that is served with nearly every Ugandan meal I've had. Accordingly, when traveling, you'll see buses, bicycles, motorbikes, and pedestrians carrying a backbreaking load of bananas, along with banana leaves in which they are steamed, and bags of charcoal to create the fire on which they are heated. This one was particularly enchanting:


Notice the chickens along with the rider:


Uganda sits on the shores of the world's second largest fresh water lake, Lake Victoria. Accordingly, fresh fish is a major food source. In the smaller villages near the lake people will catch fish and sell them roadside, hailing down passing cars. Upon stopping and rolling down the window, you'll be approached by many vendors.



Now, what is one to do with a rope-load of wet, cold, fresh fish as they drive home to the capital? PUT IT ON THE FRONT OF THE CAR!



While this certainly seems like a dietary hazard to me, there are plenty of people here doing this daily -- the air passing the fish at 80 or 90 km per hour certainly keeps the fishes cooler than the backseat.

And what if you have no backseat? This is one of the scariest, yet most telling forms of transport I've ever witnessed.


Motion vehicle accidents are one of the leading causes of death in Uganda - the stories are horrible.

On that note, I am flying out to Arua by week's end. Wish me luck!

some statistics!

Uganda (source: http://www.world66.com/africa/uganda/people)

Population: 22 167 195 (July 1998 est.)

Age structure:

0-14 years: 51% (male 5 682 510; female 5 643 962)

15-64 years: 47% (male 5 157 818; female 5 199 080)

65 years and over: 2% (male 236 374; female 247 451) (July 1998 est.)

Population growth rate: 2.85% (1998 est.)

Birth rate: 49.21 births/1 000 population (1998 est.)

Death rate: 18.95 deaths/1 000 population (1998 est.)

Net migration rate: -1.8 migrant(s)/1 000 population (1998 est.)

note: Uganda is host to refugees from a number of neighboring countries including: Sudan 175 000 Rwanda possibly 10 000 and Democratic Republic of the Congo about 5 000

Sex ratio:

at birth: 1.03 male(s)/female

under 15 years: 1 male(s)/female

15-64 years: 0.99 male(s)/female

65 years and over: 0.95 male(s)/female (1998 est.)

Infant mortality rate: 92.86 deaths/1 000 live births (1998 est.)

Life expectancy at birth:

total population: 42.6 years

male: 41.81 years

female: 43.41 years (1998 est.)

Total fertility rate: 7.09 children born/woman (1998 est.)

Nationality:

noun: Ugandan(s)

adjective: Ugandan

Ethnic groups: Baganda 17% Karamojong 12% Basoga 8% Iteso 8% Langi 6% Rwanda 6% Bagisu 5% Acholi 4% Lugbara 4% Banyoro 3% Batobo 3% non-African (European Asian Arab) 1% other 23%

Religions: Roman Catholic 33% Protestant 33% Muslim 16% indigenous beliefs 18%

Languages: English (official national language taught in grade schools used in courts of law and by most newspapers and some radio broadcasts) Ganda or Luganda (most widely used of the Niger-Congo languages preferred for native language publications and may be taught in school) other Niger-Congo languages Nilo-Saharan languages Swahili Arabic

Literacy:

definition: age 15 and over can read and write

total population: 61.8%

male: 73.7%

female: 50.2% (1995 est.)

Day 3

Friday Feb. 16:

David, another intern from Atlanta who arrived last week, and I shared stories with curious people about Jewish identity, walmart and home depot, and the aquarium. Apollo K, one of my favorite people so far, laughed and laughed about his experience in a US supermarket and the varieties and options of milk. In Uganda, you have milk. Just a plain old carton of milk. Come to the US and one could spend “an afternoon” in the milk section, choosing the right jug. The cross-cultural comparisons really are funny when you break down as such and look at it from both perspectives.

David and I made our way through the city to the American Embassy. I’ve been told that after the bombings in Kenya that security has been heightened and it certainly shows. I was made to check my camera and cell-phone (with camera), wear proper badge, and wait, wait, wait. The landscaping and architecture was absolutely fantastic – they must’ve shipped everything, down to the door knobs and window treatments here from the states. At least now they, meaning those far off states of the American governmental power know that I’m here in Uganda and will call me boss if something happens (supposedly).

Francis brought me to a combination of a petrol station/ice-creamery/wine shop, which listed “ice-cream spaghetti” on the menu and we proceeded to a serious ex-pat party in Bugolobi. This was by far the most international crowd I’ve had the opportunity to party with – hailing from all corners of the earth the main thing we shared was our foreignness to Uganda. Well, except for Francis and Janet. I met AP writers, Princeton students studying abroad, aid-works, medics doing their residencies, BBC correspondents, conflict resolution experts, etc. On one hand this made me feel very connected, but on the other, I felt quite fresh; hopefully a few weeks from now I’ll be able to tell the new muzungu to “just relax” too.

Day 2

Thursday, Feb. 15

Everything continues to pleasantly surprise – be it making a phone call to someone to set up a meeting and having them pick me up roadside within three minutes or being given a key to someone’s house with full access offered after knowing them via the internet for all of a week.

A friend (Kalema) of a friend (David G) put me in touch with his “young auntie,” a Makerere University student living in Kampala. Janet and her boyfriend have been incredible to me, and are incredible in and of themselves. My second night here, in an attempt to make me feel at home, they brought me to Domino’s Pizza. Albeit a namesake, they are certainly not the same domino’s from home. Delicious none the less, and the first spotting of cheese in the country.

We visited a bar near my hotel – a thatched roof joint with a DJ spinning bad house music. I tried Nile beer for the first time, something I’ll skip in the future. There are three popular Ugandan brews (that I’ve encountered thus far): Nile, Bell, and Club. The first is a bit too heavy, the latter are both up my alley. This bar was great – open air, old men playing pool, roasted goat meat – what else could I ask for? BUGSPRAY.

The Fairway hotel continues to be home base – my nets are secure and keeping me itch free; the breakfast is delightful with “Spanish omelets” every morning (note: NOT the same as Spanish omelets in Spain…) with fresh paw-paw (papaya), watermelon, and pineapple (which everyone except me will tell you is the best pineapple in the world; I prefer Dole, thank you).

first days

Wednesday, Valentine’s day, Feb. 14:

Noah, a friend from Sarasota, working for the Refugee Law Project, met me at the hotel as did Dr. Fred from Columbia Uni. and we had a delightful dinner with Noah’s posse at the Krua Thai restaurant – first night in Africa and I have Thai food, heh.

Noah’s lady friends were lovely – Kristin hails from Minnesota and is here without a planned departure, working at an organization serving, advocating, and identifying victims of torture. Angela, from Oklahoma, spent six months in Kenya before coming to Uganda to continue with an NGO called SmileTrain that delivers facial reconstruction surgery to children and adults with cleft pallets and other facial deformities. So far my expectations have been met that most muzungus are here with an NGO of some sort – be it development, social work, or health care. Fine by me, at least we can relate. Another observation – Noah seems to be one of the few who have been here longer than 3 months…makes me wonder where and why all are coming and going.

arrivals and departures

I’ve started this blog in my head so many times, but it’s now time to put the pen to paper, or at least sullied fingertip to keyboard. So far, nearly the whole of my experience has been kind to me. After a hurried departure from Sarasota, complicated by breaking baggage zippers and the snooze function of the alarm clock, I made it to Miami and had a tearful/optimistic goodbye from my mom.

One sleeping pill later I woke up in London, successfully navigated my way to the Holborn stop on the Tube, and met up with Jimin, a friend from days at Emory, who now studies at the London School of Economics. We enjoyed curried aubergine at the Tate Modern lunch spot and I decided that London is far too expensive for me. A walk along the Thames brought me back to the tube – everything went smoothly overall, with a slight detour, line close, and scare in the middle. First problematic encounter occurred as I was boarding the flight and the BA flight attendant informed me that the wheels on my bag put it over the length restrictions (mind you, I measured the pack that I bought specifically to meet the new British Airways restrictions, called thrice, flew from Miami to London problem free, passed security, and even inquired at the info desk to make certain the bag was acceptable…).

Gate checked my pack, bought a new Longchamp duffel style piece and boarded this small plane where my white, muzungu face shone brightly amongst the various skin colors represented. My seat partner was an antique of a woman, at 76 years old named Yeozefina. I know this because I filled in her immigration cards, as she didn’t read or write, let alone speak English. She spoke in Luganda to another neighboring passenger who informed me that Yeozefina had been visiting her daughter in the UK.



Born 5 May 1930, this woman was a triumph, in a country where the life expectancy is 44. I wish we could have spoken – she has seen so many changes in her life from colonialism to Amin. Her passport identified her as a peasant. My passport should ID me as a culture vulture.

Our flight path:


My first African sunrise was truly beautiful.



We arrived on time, at 8:45 AM and dismounted directly to the tarmac:


A CARE driver/vendor named Paul swooped me up and helped me with my cumbersome bags – and brought me from Entebbe (on the shores of Lake Victoria) to the capital city of Kampala. The streets were dotted with boda bodas (motorcycles) and matatus (overcrowded passenger buses). The children, goats, and red dirt fit the descriptions I’ve been anticipating.

The road from Entebbe to Kampala:



Paul first brought me to the YWCA where CARE had made my arrangements – for various reasons this was not the right place for me and Paul delivered me safely to the lovely Fairway Hotel, which is one block away from CARE Headquarters.

The Fairway hotel www.thefairwayhotel.com


Photos can best describe my first few experiences here, and I’ll continue sharing accordingly:

This is my daily path - appropriately labeled. My hotel is straight ahead on the left and CARE HQ is behind to the right:



One of the lovely vistas of the immaculate gardens and green spaces at the Fairway:



Somewhat fascinating: African construction projects…a new hotel next to CARE


The CARE offices are confined to a compound of sorts that comes from an old rehabbed house:


Lunch is available for 2,000 Ugandan Shillings, UGS. A woman named Juliet comes and serves everyday at 1:00. The Ugandan diet is seriously loaded with Carbs – today we had matoke (mashed bananas served with “gravy”), some sort of pinto beans in sauce, some greens, brown rice, and stewed chicken.


My favorite tree in Uganda so far – I think it’s a banyan


For Paul and Evan: the social moths. In the early morning these buggers dot the walls in such a fashion that It is hard to tell that they are bugs – it appears that they are built in decorations!



A view of the same wall, a bit further removed. I took this photo after chatting with the CARE guard/security officer, a beamingly friendly guy called “Smiley.”


Again at the Fairway, a view of my room – king sized bed with proper netting (tied up for the day):



And a view from my balcony:


The daily maid service is beyond generous and made me feel a little bit loved with this Valentine’s day special:



There are many additional points that I’ll have to address later – for now I hope this satisfies!

I am headed to Rakai tomorrow with Dr. Fred, a Ugandan Professor at Columbia University who I’ve been talking with for awhile. We’ll visit his research project in the south part of the country.

Until then, cheers to you all worldwide.