arrivals and departures

I’ve started this blog in my head so many times, but it’s now time to put the pen to paper, or at least sullied fingertip to keyboard. So far, nearly the whole of my experience has been kind to me. After a hurried departure from Sarasota, complicated by breaking baggage zippers and the snooze function of the alarm clock, I made it to Miami and had a tearful/optimistic goodbye from my mom.

One sleeping pill later I woke up in London, successfully navigated my way to the Holborn stop on the Tube, and met up with Jimin, a friend from days at Emory, who now studies at the London School of Economics. We enjoyed curried aubergine at the Tate Modern lunch spot and I decided that London is far too expensive for me. A walk along the Thames brought me back to the tube – everything went smoothly overall, with a slight detour, line close, and scare in the middle. First problematic encounter occurred as I was boarding the flight and the BA flight attendant informed me that the wheels on my bag put it over the length restrictions (mind you, I measured the pack that I bought specifically to meet the new British Airways restrictions, called thrice, flew from Miami to London problem free, passed security, and even inquired at the info desk to make certain the bag was acceptable…).

Gate checked my pack, bought a new Longchamp duffel style piece and boarded this small plane where my white, muzungu face shone brightly amongst the various skin colors represented. My seat partner was an antique of a woman, at 76 years old named Yeozefina. I know this because I filled in her immigration cards, as she didn’t read or write, let alone speak English. She spoke in Luganda to another neighboring passenger who informed me that Yeozefina had been visiting her daughter in the UK.



Born 5 May 1930, this woman was a triumph, in a country where the life expectancy is 44. I wish we could have spoken – she has seen so many changes in her life from colonialism to Amin. Her passport identified her as a peasant. My passport should ID me as a culture vulture.

Our flight path:


My first African sunrise was truly beautiful.



We arrived on time, at 8:45 AM and dismounted directly to the tarmac:


A CARE driver/vendor named Paul swooped me up and helped me with my cumbersome bags – and brought me from Entebbe (on the shores of Lake Victoria) to the capital city of Kampala. The streets were dotted with boda bodas (motorcycles) and matatus (overcrowded passenger buses). The children, goats, and red dirt fit the descriptions I’ve been anticipating.

The road from Entebbe to Kampala:



Paul first brought me to the YWCA where CARE had made my arrangements – for various reasons this was not the right place for me and Paul delivered me safely to the lovely Fairway Hotel, which is one block away from CARE Headquarters.

The Fairway hotel www.thefairwayhotel.com


Photos can best describe my first few experiences here, and I’ll continue sharing accordingly:

This is my daily path - appropriately labeled. My hotel is straight ahead on the left and CARE HQ is behind to the right:



One of the lovely vistas of the immaculate gardens and green spaces at the Fairway:



Somewhat fascinating: African construction projects…a new hotel next to CARE


The CARE offices are confined to a compound of sorts that comes from an old rehabbed house:


Lunch is available for 2,000 Ugandan Shillings, UGS. A woman named Juliet comes and serves everyday at 1:00. The Ugandan diet is seriously loaded with Carbs – today we had matoke (mashed bananas served with “gravy”), some sort of pinto beans in sauce, some greens, brown rice, and stewed chicken.


My favorite tree in Uganda so far – I think it’s a banyan


For Paul and Evan: the social moths. In the early morning these buggers dot the walls in such a fashion that It is hard to tell that they are bugs – it appears that they are built in decorations!



A view of the same wall, a bit further removed. I took this photo after chatting with the CARE guard/security officer, a beamingly friendly guy called “Smiley.”


Again at the Fairway, a view of my room – king sized bed with proper netting (tied up for the day):



And a view from my balcony:


The daily maid service is beyond generous and made me feel a little bit loved with this Valentine’s day special:



There are many additional points that I’ll have to address later – for now I hope this satisfies!

I am headed to Rakai tomorrow with Dr. Fred, a Ugandan Professor at Columbia University who I’ve been talking with for awhile. We’ll visit his research project in the south part of the country.

Until then, cheers to you all worldwide.